Considering Fabrics for Summer

I read a book years ago, Dressing the Man, and it opened with a revelation that has always stuck with me: we are at an all-time high in terms of volume of clothing being sold to consumers, and the knowledge of said clothing is at an all-time low. Big box stores have a client database, but that’s only to remind you, “Mrs. Swanson needs ring because she bought a suit last year and now, we have new suits". I know this because I did this for years at the bigger retailers. We only had to sell the crap, it was never in our job description to understand what we were selling or why. Local shops purchase pieces with intention, they remember customers and build relationships with them to create a successful business.

One of the most frustrating statements I hear is: “I want a suit, but nothing heavy, not wool.” This mindset is a product of decades of unknowledgeable salespeople just selling the new items without giving it a second though. The reason those hot new cotton suits are coming in for summer is because they’re a fraction of the cost to make. But a better product to purchase for summer is Linen or Wool.

Material Types and How to Choose

If you have a knowledgeable salesperson, they will be able to talk you through some of the things that make a specific cloth special. While some individuals like to get into the technical weeds about each different fabric, most people prefer to focus on form, function, and comfort. If you prefer not to spend time considering the subtle nuances between each different fabric for your garment, thinking about appearance, breathability, and softness will be enough to guide your purchasing decision.

Linen

If you’re looking for a light, breathable suit to wear on a hot summer day, this is a terrific place to start the search. Linen suits are known for being extremely lightweight and breathable, so you’ll stay as cool as possible while still looking great. The “downside” to such a lightweight fabric is that it can become wrinkled easily. I say “downside”, because a wrinkly linen suit IS the look, but people today do not understand that. Since many linen suits are also light in color, they’re likely to show stains.

Choose a linen suit in the summer, especially if you’re going to be outside. These suits are more casual than wool and cotton suits, so they may not be appropriate for some office settings or very formal events. Buy a linen suit for less extravagant days, then plan on getting it dry cleaned regularly to keep it in top condition. You should wear this 4-5 times a year.

Cotton

Cotton suits aren’t quite as light and breathable as linen, but they’re still appropriate for summer. Cotton isn’t the softest fabric on the list, but it’s certainly comfortable enough for most men. This fabric doesn’t hold its shape, as well as wool does, but it doesn’t crease quite as easily as linen. Choose heavy cotton, or even a blend of cotton and wool, if you need your suit to hold its shape and look sharp in a formal environment. Honestly, don’t buy a cotton suit. Buy a casual cotton jacket, or pants.

Wool

Wool is the most common suit material, and it isn’t hard to understand why. This fabric is extremely versatile, soft to the touch, and difficult to wrinkle. It’s not quite as light as linen but still breathes well enough for even hot days. The reason why 100"% wool is so important, wool sheered right from a sheep keeps its natural qualities: stretch, moisture wicking, cooling/heating. Think about why a sheep has this as its natural coat, it keeps it warm when it’s cold, it is light so the sheep won’t overheat, it has a natural stretch to it, and better Mills will have a range of weights. There are several types of wool suits, including cashmere, worsted, and tweed.

Cashmere

You may find suits that are completely made of cashmere or those that use a cashmere blend. Either option will look luxurious and feel soft to the touch. Cashmere suits are somewhat flashy, but they’re appropriate for almost any situation if that’s your style. Cashmere is an extremely delicate fabric. Much like linen, it is not supposed to be warn every day, or even once a month. This is a few times a year at most.

Worsted

Worsted suits are durable, which makes them a popular choice. Worsted wool has been combed to remove short, brittle fibers, leaving only the longer strands. This makes the fabric compact and makes worsted wool suits feel smooth to the touch. Worsted wool can be woven into a variety of different ways, and even some flannel and tweed are worsted.

Tweed

Tweed is versatile enough to be worn at almost any time, but it’s especially popular for the fall and winter months. The way the wool is spun into tweed makes tweed suits relatively heavy and warm. A tweed jacket by itself can create a more casual aesthetic, while the full tweed suit looks classic without being overly formal. It’s a good thing tweed is so timeless because these suits last a long time. When people think, “I don’t want something heavy like wool”, this is the fabric they are thinking of.

Silk

Silk is produced by insects and moths to build cocoons. It’s ideal for any season because it’s breathable enough for hot days but can still help retain body heat when the weather gets cold. Choosing silk definitely can make a statement when you want to look especially luxurious. The price of this fabric reflects the quality.

Polyester

Polyester, unlike the other fabrics on this list, is produced from synthetic materials. In part, it isn’t natural because it isn’t regarded with the same respect as the other types of suit fabrics. Cheap wool suits are sometimes blended with polyester to make them more affordable to produce.

Unfortunately, polyester fabrics also wrinkle more than wool. The polyester fibers can appear shiny in some light, which will also contribute to making these suits look cheap. They’re also not ideal for extreme temperatures because they don’t breathe very well.

Summary

Think of buying a garment like buying a car, and the fabric represents the features of the car. Do you need all wheel drive, want to enjoy the ride, how about a heated steering wheel for winter? You wouldn’t buy a car from someone who just wanted to sell the new arrival. You want a car to fit your lifestyle. That is how you should approach the fabric choices for your garment.