The History of Tariffs in America: Threads of a Complicated Legacy

Walk into any tailor shop today and you’ll likely see bolts of fabric, thread-lined workbenches, and a rhythm of creation passed down through generations. But behind each hand-sewn buttonhole or perfectly draped collar lies a quieter thread — one that’s woven into the fabric of American economics: tariffs.

At Bards, we believe that every garment tells a story. And to truly understand the story of American-made clothing, we need to look back at the policies that shaped its rise, its fall, and its resilient return.

A Foundation Built on Protection

In the earliest days of the Republic, tariffs were not just economic tools — they were lifelines. The Tariff Act of 1789, one of the first laws passed by Congress, was designed to protect budding American industries from being undercut by European imports. These taxes on foreign goods were used to promote domestic production — including textiles and tailoring — and to fund the federal government before income taxes ever existed.

For the growing young nation, tariffs weren’t just a fiscal policy. They were a declaration: we will build for ourselves, by ourselves.

Industrial Boom and the Rise of American Manufacturing

As the 19th century unfolded, tariffs helped fuel America’s Industrial Revolution. From Pennsylvania steel to New England textile mills, the U.S. became a powerhouse of production. High tariffs made imported goods expensive, which encouraged citizens to buy American. Local manufacturers, including garment makers, thrived.

In these years, “Made in America” wasn’t a nostalgic slogan — it was a way of life.

The 20th Century: Globalization and Decline

World wars, the Great Depression, and shifting alliances led to waves of tariff reform. After World War II, the U.S. embraced global trade as a way to rebuild economies and promote peace. Tariffs were gradually reduced through trade agreements like GATT and later the WTO.

By the 1990s, with the rise of fast fashion and offshoring, tariffs had become less about protecting American industries and more about facilitating global commerce. The result? A rapid decline in domestic clothing manufacturing. At one point, 98% of the clothes Americans wore were made on American soil. Today, that number is closer to 2%.

A once-thriving tradition — one of craftsmanship, heritage, and pride — nearly disappeared.

A New Chapter: Reviving the American Thread

Today, we’re seeing something powerful: a return to roots.

Tariffs are back in the spotlight, often debated in headlines and political campaigns. But for small businesses and makers like us, the conversation is deeper than policy. It’s about values.

At Bards Clothing, we’re not waiting for policy to change. We’re choosing — intentionally — to craft here, in the United States, because we believe in the story our garments tell. We believe in the hands that stitch them, the mills that weave them, and the communities that support them.

Tariffs may come and go. Policies shift. But the enduring truth is this: American-made matters.

Final Stitch

The history of tariffs is, like any good story, complex. It’s filled with ambition, adversity, and transformation. But at its core, it’s about choices — the choice to protect, to build, to revive.

And every time you wear a Bards garment, you’re part of that story. You’re choosing heritage. You’re choosing home. You’re choosing to be a part of something made with purpose.

Looking Ahead: The 2025 Tariffs and the Road Forward

As of 2025, the United States has introduced a new wave of tariff proposals aimed at strengthening domestic manufacturing — including sectors like textiles and apparel. These tariffs target imported goods that have long undercut American producers in price but not in quality or ethics.

For small businesses committed to U.S.-based production, these new policies offer hope — and challenges. Increased tariffs on imported garments may narrow the price gap between mass-produced foreign clothing and artisan-made domestic pieces. That shift has the potential to reawaken public interest in where and how their clothing is made.

But the future of tariffs isn’t just about politics. It’s about people. It's about whether we, as consumers and citizens, are willing to invest in craftsmanship, to support our neighbors, and to tell a new story — one woven with pride, purpose, and permanence.

At Bards, we see these policies not as a finish line, but a fresh beginning. One more chapter in the long American tradition of making — of choosing to create something lasting, something meaningful, something ours.

Let’s keep weaving that legacy forward — one thread at a time.